::HOW TO CUSTOMIZE AIR FORCE ONES::
1st Method (
http://www.geocities.com/ethernyc/main )
1.
First off, my brushes:
- 1' round brush
- Detail Brush 3
- Detail Brush 2
- Detail Brush 1
The round brush is your most important tool IMO. It is very useful when painting an open area. Due to its size it obviously covers more space than the other 3 brushes. The smaller brushes are for tight areas and edges, where clean lines are an absolute must. Clean your brushes beforehand to prevent bumps on your paint. Also, never let the paint dry on the brush. Soak your brushes in a bowl of water when you are not using it. The pallette that I use is nothing fancy, just a styrofoam plate or bowl. Clean-up is easy because they are disposable.
2.
Use acetone/nail polish remover to clean the surface of the shoe. You can get the acetone in your local pharmacy or grocery. This isn't really necessary for every type of shoe, but I guess you're better off using it. I've had times where I didn't use it (painted the swoosh of my AF1's) and it still came out fine. However, look at the surface of the leather you are working with. Touch it and see if it has a somewhat slippery feel (as if there's a wax/PU coating). If it does then acetone definitely has to be used. It removes the coating and allows the paint to adhere better to the surface.
3.
As for the paint itself I use acrylic paints. Liquitex™ is the brand that I hear of the most so I assume it's good. These are the brands that I've tried myself:
Grumbacher™-comes in 3 oz. tubes. This paint is not a liquid (It has a toothpaste-y consistency). My set came in a 6-pack. Little expensive though.
Delta Ceramics™-This is the paint that I use now. It comes in different bottle sizes but I usually buy the small 2 oz. bottles. It looks small but one bottle is good enough for one pair of kicks. The 2 oz. bottles sell for less than $2 at crafts stores.
Apple Barrell Colors™-These are almost the same as the Delta Ceramics bottles. They sell for the same price and the quality is just as good.
*NEVER APPLY PAINT BY ITSELF TO THE LEATHER! IT WILL CRACK*
Always mix acetone with your paint. The acetone makes the paint flexible and unlikely to crack (I read this in meth's or kvn's guide. I forgot which one). I use a 5:2 mixture of Paint to Acetone. A little alcohol on the mixture also helps. It is best to test the paint before applying it to the shoe. Try painting on a styrofoam plate. If there are tiny bumps, then add more paint to your mixture. Test again. Press hard on the brush when painting to get a smooth surface. Give the shoe 3 coats or until it is completely covered. Remember to let the paint dry before applying another coat.
4.
The finish. If you want your paintjob to last longer then I recommend using a clear coat. I have tried 2 finishes:
Gloss Finish - The gloss finish that i use is made by Delta Ceramics™. This product is really great if you know how to use it properly. In my experience this product is meant to be used thinly on the surface. I dont recommend putting on a thick amount on the surface as the gloss tends to dry quickly. Thick coats tend to leave uneven bumps. "Can you use this to create a patent leather finish?" No. I have tried doing this on a beat-up pair of AF1's. By applying a thick coat and following up with a blow-dryer you get a really glossy finish but it is uneven and nowhere close to real patent leather.
Matte Finish - The matte finish that I use is made by FolkArt™. unlike the gloss the matte finish leaves the surface dull and not as reflective. Do not apply thick amounts onto the leather. When it dries it looks like wax. Apply only thin even coats to the shoe surface. Besides using matte finish on the upper I also like to use it on painted soles. Numerous but thin layers on the soles can protect the paint effectively, but of course not permanently.
*update* I have been experimenting with the Minwax™ Gloss Polyurethane spray and I found it to be better and easier to use than its Delta Ceramics™ counterpart. Because it is a spray, the finish is much more smoother. With this product, it is very possible to create a finish similar to patent leather. I'll update you as soon as I finish further experimentation.
2nd Method (
http://www.instyleshoes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17307)
Materials:
-Angelus Leather PAINT
-Acetone (or shoe preparer)
-Brushes (Medium, Fine, and Broad)
-Cotton Balls (for acetone)
-Finish Coat (Waxy layer)
(For flat colors add Liquitex Textile Medium to your paint...maybe a 3:1 ratio of paint to medium. for gloss coat and gloss medium to the mixture)
Step 1: Put Acetone on the Cotton Ball (be careful this ish is harmful use gloves) and rub area where you will apply paint. Make sure the waxy layer is off the leather (it will turn grey.. if not look at the cotton ball and if there is a paste like substance it is the waxy layer)
Step 2: Get paint ready (mix colors for ur needs) Now take your brush and apply paint once to your area (it mite be uneven DONT WORRY) and make sure it isn't bumpy or relli thick. LET DRY
Step 3: Apply another coat of paint to the area (it should look better now but not completely the best) LET DRY
Step 4: Apply the last coat but put the least amount of paint on your brush and this will be the last layer of paint. LET DRY.
Step 5: This step is optional. Angelus already has a waterproofed coat but for a professional finish spray a waxy layer on the paint area. this will not make it shiny or dull and will not affect the colors.
Customized trainers -
11-27-2004, 08:28 PM
word -
11-27-2004, 08:56 PM
